I’ve been thinking all week about the pohpia, the fresh spring rolls at Coffee Bean by Dao, Paradise Park. They are a mouthful of minced pork, shrimp, noodles, and fresh basil chiffonade all wrapped up in a chewy rice noodle wrap, then sprinkled with a spicy green chili nam jim dipping sauce. Just pop the whole thing in your mouth. The first bite is spicy, and then you chew, chew chew, and your tongue wraps around the shrimp, the pork, the noodles, and the sharp fresh taste of basil. It’s comfort food that soothes the senses, and if you feel even the slightest bit guilty, don’t.