I’ve been experimenting with yeast-y things like doughnuts–because they’re fun. I found this recipe from NY Times Cooking, and it looked straightforward enough. However, my first batch was a disaster because I forgot the eggs. So I started over with another batch but could not get the dough to clean the sides of the mixing bowl. It was horribly sticky. I ended up adding 10 tablespoons flour, 2 at a time, to the mixer and when it started to come together, dumped it out onto a floured board where I added 2 more tablespoons of flour because it was still unmanageable. I was sure the doughnuts were inedible, so I was pleasantly surprised when they turned out soft, pillowy, and tender. I made a few with blueberry jelly–it was all I had in the pantry. Feeling bolder, I made a third batch and experimented with two different fillings: young coconut cream and spiced jujube compote. I still have to work on my technique; getting an even color in frying and making fillings that are strong enough in flavor to stand out. This is a work in progress!
Jelly Doughnuts (adapted from Mark Bittman at NY Times Cooking)
Yield: 24 doughnuts
Time: 3 hours
1 1/4 cups whole milk
2 1/4 teaspoons instant dry yeast
2 eggs, room temperature
8 tablespoons (110 g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1/4 cup caster sugar plus 1 teaspoon
1 teaspoon salt
4 1/4 cups (544 g) all purpose flour, plus more for rolling out the dough
2 quarts vegetable oil for frying, plus more to oil the bowl
1/4 cup granulated sugar for coating the fried doughnuts
Special equipment: a candy thermometer, piping bag(s)
In a heatproof measuring cup, heat the milk in the microwave for 50 seconds until it reaches a temperature of 110˚F. Pour warm milk into the workbowl of a stand mixer. Sprinkle the yeast and 1 teaspoon sugar on the surface of the milk. Stir lightly and let sit until the mixture is foamy, about 5-7 minutes.
To the yeast mixture, add the eggs, melted butter, 1/4 cup sugar, salt, and all the flour. Fit the dough hook on the mixer and mix the yeast-flour mixture until combined, and the dough begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl. If it doesn’t do this, and the dough feels very sticky (when touched some dough comes away on your fingertip), sprinkle 2 tablespoons flour on the dough, and continue beating until smooth. Continue adding flour 2 tablespoons at a time if the dough is still too sticky and won’t pull away from the sides of the bowl. I added up to 10 tablespoons without detriment. Grease a large bowl with a little oil. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, kneading the dough and incorporating up to 2 additional tablespoons of flour. The dough should be smooth and shiny. Transfer the dough to the bowl and cover with plastic wrap and a clean kitchen towel. Let rise at room temperature until it doubles in size, about 1 hour.
Baker’s Note: Mark Bittman never said how long to knead the dough in the mixer. That would be 8-10 minutes. For the second batch, I only put in 6 additional tablespoons of flour but the texture wasn’t as soft and pillowy as the previous batch when I added 12 tablespoons flour. After eight minutes of beating and 6 tablespoons of flour, the dough was still sticky but it was beginning to come together in a ball. That was when I stopped the machine and turned out the dough onto a floured board. It was still very sticky. I think I should have kneaded it by hand a few more times until it became smooth and shiny. Always go by how the dough looks and feels!
While the dough is proofing in the bowl, prepare the fillings (recipes to follow) and line two baking trays with parchment paper that has been lightly sprinkled with flour. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface, and sprinkle a little flour on top. Because I have a small work surface, I cut the dough ball in half and put one half back in the bowl covered with plastic. I rolled out the remaining half to a 1/2 inch thickness. I used a 4 inch cookie cutter to cut out 8 circles. Don’t twist the cutter because you want to get a straight edge for the doughnuts to puff up when they fry. Gently knead any scraps together to form a ball, and let it rest, covered with plastic, for 30 minutes before cutting out more dough circles. These re-kneaded scraps will not have the height of the first roll-out of doughnuts.
Baker’s Note: Try and get as many doughnuts as possible from the first roll.
Put the cut dough circles on the prepared baking sheets so that there is at least an inch of space between each circle. Cover with a kitchen towel, and let rise in a warm place until they are slightly puffed up, about 30 minutes. Check, and if they are not risen, let them rest 10-15 minutes more.
Fifteen minutes before the dough has completed its second rise, heat the oil. Prepare a baking tray or a large platter layered with paper towels to drain the hot doughnuts. Fill a shallow bowl with 1/4 cup sugar to coat the hot doughnuts. Prepare 3-4 loaf pans for stacking the sugared doughnuts.
Baker’s Note: I re-used the oil from the first batch of doughnuts. The oil did not fry up the second batch of doughnuts as well as the first because there was flour in it. I also got more blisters and uneven browning. Using new oil for each batch is worth it.
In a large heavy-bottomed pot (I used a wok) add about 2 1/2 to 3 inches of oil and heat over medium-high heat to 350˚F. The temperature is important. If the oil isn’t hot enough, the doughnuts will soak up more oil. Use a metal spatula to lift the delicate risen doughnuts from the parchment and slip them into the hot oil. Depending on the size of your pot, add 4-6 doughnuts at a time. They should not crowd each other. After 45 seconds to a minute, when the bottoms are deep golden, flip the doughnuts over to cook the other side for 30 seconds. When the doughnuts are golden brown on the second side, use a skimmer or a spider to remove them from the hot oil to the paper-towel lined platter/baking tray to cool.
When the doughnuts have cooled for about a minute, coat them in sugar and stack them in a loaf pan to await filling. You want to sugar the doughnuts while they are still hot so the sugar adheres to the surfaces.
Baker’s Note: After frying a batch of doughnuts, pause to let the oil come back up to temperature. While the oil is heating up again, sugar the doughnuts.
Fill the doughnuts about 10 minutes after they have been coated with sugar, when they will be cool enough to handle. Make sure the fillings are at room temperature. To fill the doughnuts, use a chopstick or a plastic straw to make a hole in the side of the fried doughnut. Wiggle it around slightly to enlarge the hole, but be careful not to pierce through the doughnut. Snip off the tip of the piping bag and fill. Insert the tip into the hole and squeeze the piping bag gently until some of the filling just oozes out the top of the filled doughnut.
Baker’s Note: If you haven’t got a small round icing tip for filling the doughnuts, some people improvise with a two-inch tip of a plastic straw. What you want is something stiff to insert into the very top of the doughnut to fill it. The tip doesn’t have to go all the way inside. Stack the filled doughnuts upright back in the loaf pan to keep the filling from dripping out and letting the doughnut finish cooling. I did not use any icing tip for the second batch of doughnuts. I found the filled piping bag was stiff enough; just squeeze the filling from the top to the tip. Of course, there were drips from the cut end, but there were drips from the tip too.
Baker’s Note: To save time, I make the fillings a day ahead and keep them in the refrigerator. When I am ready to make doughnuts, I bring the fillings up to room temperature.
The easiest filling of all to use is a jar of jam, jelly, or preserves. Spoon the jam, jelly, or preserves into a small saucepan to heat until it becomes a thick liquid. If using jam or preserves that have fruit pieces in them, strain the heated liquid and discard the fruit pieces. Spoon the thickened liquid into a piping bag and let it rest on a plate to cool to room temperature. Use a tie clip to cover the top so the filling won’t spill out. Don’t snip the end of the bag until ready to fill the doughnuts.
Young Coconut Cream (adapted from Food Network)
500 ml coconut milk
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons coconut water
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh coconut jelly from a young coconut
Add coconut milk, sugar, and salt to a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir until sugar and salt dissolve. Reduce heat to medium low.
In a small bowl, add the cornstarch. Pour in the coconut water and combine to make a slurry. Whisk slurry into coconut milk mixture. Allow the mixture to reduce and thicken to the consistency of yogurt. In a word, it should be thick, not runny. The longer you cook the mixture the more it will thicken so watch carefully until the liquid reaches the desired consistency. Add the chopped coconut and scrape into a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap. Make sure the plastic touches the surface of the cream because you don’t want a skin to form. Chill in the refrigerator to room temperature. Spoon the cooled cream to fill a piping bag halfway and clip the top closed. Let it rest in a plate until ready to pipe. You may have leftover cream. Chill and eat leftovers for dessert! The Hawaiians call this coconut pudding haupia.
Spiced Jujube Compote (adapted from Real Simple)
4 cups peeled, seeded, and diced jujubes (putsa in Thai)
1/4 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves or allspice
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
Pulse the jujubes in a food processor to get a coarse lumpy consistency. Put all ingredients in a medium pot over medium heat. Cook, stirring and mashing the fruit, until the jujubes have broken down and the mixture is thick, 8-10 minutes. It should look like applesauce. Stir in the vinegar. Transfer the compote to a bowl. Let cool slightly, then cover with plastic wrap. Chill in the refrigerator to room temperature, then fill a piping bag halfway with the cooled compote