black pepper pork and cabbage with gua bao (pork belly buns)

Gua bao is a flat steamed bun folded in half and stuffed with meat. The most popular is pork belly but any meat and also vegetables will give themselves over to this delicious snack. Here they are stuffed with black pepper pork and cabbage. When I was in college 50 years ago (was it so long ago?) one of the first dishes I learned to make was stir-fried pork and cabbage eaten spooned over hot steamed rice. I have revisited that dish as a savory stuffing for these gua bao, soft and fluffy, lightly sweet and highly addictive.

Make gua bao first. Twelve make a meal but as an appetizer or snack, make fourteen. While the dough is proofing, make the filling.

Gua Bao (adapted from Mooncakes and Milk Bread by Kristina Cho)

Rising time: 80-90 minutes

Yield: 12-14

2 1/2 cups/300g all-purpose flour

1/4 cup/50g sugar

1 teaspoon instant yeast

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/8 teaspoon fine salt

scant 3/4 cup/160g warm water (110˚F)

2 tablespoons canola oil, for brushing

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine flour, sugar, instant yeast, and baking powder on low speed. Mix in the salt. With the motor running, slowly pour in the warm water and mix until a shaggy dough forms. Increase the speed to medium-high and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic, 8-9 minutes. Stop the machine and transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface. Pinch and pull the dough into a smooth taut ball.

Lightly oil a large bowl and place the dough in it. Turn the dough to coat. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and place the bowl to rise in a warm spot, 40-60 minutes, until the dough doubles in size. Press down on the dough to deflate it. Turn out onto the lightly floured work surface. Pinch and pull the dough into a smooth taut ball. Weigh it and divide it into 12 or 14 portions by weight.

While the dough is rising, cut 12 or 14 squares of parchment paper or use flattened cupcake lines. Working with one piece of dough at a time, pinch and pull it into a smooth ball and place each ball on a piece of parchment. Cover ball with plastic wrap. Continue with the remaining balls.

Roll out a portion of dough as flat as you can. Lightly brush the top with oil. Gently fold the oiled dough over on itself and put it back on the parchment. Cover with damp cloth. Continue with the other dough portions. Let proof until puffy, 40 minutes

While dough is proofing, boil 1 inch to 1 1/2 inches of water in a steamer pot. Bring to a boil. Put four bao and parchment in the steamer rack. If using an aluminum steamer, wrap the lid in a towel. Cover. Steam the batch 10 minutes. Off heat and rest 5 minutes. Remove gua bao from steamer and place on a large plate. Remove paper, fill, and serve.

Black Pepper Pork and Cabbage (adapted from NYT Cooking)

1 tablespoon coarsely ground black peppercorns

2-3 large garlic cloves, grated

2 teaspoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon cornstarch

Salt

2 teaspoons onion powder

2 teaspoons garlic powder

1 1/2 cups/375g pork tenderloin, slightly frozen and sliced very thin

3 tablespoons canola oil

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

1 cup/90g green cabbage thinly sliced

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds, optional

2 scallions thinly sliced on diagonal, optional

Chile oil for serving (can use sambal goreng/oelek)

In a small bowl, combine crushed peppercorns, garlic, sugar, cornstarch, salt, onion powder and garlic powder. Place pork slices in a large bowl and sprinkle the peppercorn mixture on top. Mix with your hands until thoroughly combined. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium high heat. Add the pork slices in batches and cook until no longer pink and are lightly browned. Sprinkle with soy sauce and stir to coat. Transfer meat to a bowl or plate.

If there isn’t enough oil, add a teaspoon more to the skillet. Add the cabbage and cook until wilted and shiny. If the cabbage sticks to the pan, deglaze the pan with a little water and continue stirring and cooking until crisp-tender. Sprinkle on the vinegar and lightly season with salt. Add pork and juices back to the skillet and stir to combine with cabbage. Top with toasted sesame seeds and scallion, if using. Cool slightly. Stuff gua bao and serve with chile oil.

hangzhou sweet and sour pork

We were in Hangzhou two years ago when we went down to the West Lake on our first evening to watch the fountain, light, and music show. Afterwards, we went into this restaurant called Grandmother’s Kitchen for dinner. That’s when I first tasted sweet and sour pork,  Hangzhou style,  and I was surprised by its honest fresh flavour. The sauce wasn’t sticky, sweet, and dense, like the Chinese- American restaurant version, but lightly sweet with tart notes and a pleasant sour base that made you want to eat more of it. This recipe from Fuchsia Dunlop’s cookbook Land of Fish and Rice brings me back to that night in Hangzhou.

Hangzhou Sweet and Sour Pork
Time: 30 minutes
Yield: serves 2 if a main meal

For the pork:
10 oz/275g pork tenderloin
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine or dry sherry
2 tablespoons potato starch
4 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 teaspoon sesame oil, optional
A handful of scallions, green parts only, cut into 1 or 2 inch/2.5-5cm lengths
Rice bran oil or vegetable oil for deep frying

For the sauce:
3 tablespoons superfine sugar
2 tablespoons Chinkiang vinegar (can substitute Balsamic Vinegar)
1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine or dry sherry
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
1 teaspoon potato starch mixed with 2 teaspoons cold water

Split the tenderloin in half lengthwise then cut each half into 1/2 inch thick pieces. Put pork into a medium bowl and add the salt and wine/sherry. Mix well.
In a large bowl, mix together potato starch and flour with 5 tablespoons water. Stir with chopsticks to make a thick batter. Add pork to the batter and stir well to coat. Combine the sauce ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.

In a wok, heat about an inch of oil to 350˚F/150˚C. Using a pair of chopsticks, drop the pieces of pork into the hot oil. Don’t crowd the pan. Fry in batches 3 minutes or until just cooked through. Remove with a slotted spoon to a paper towel lined plate to drain. Reheat the oil to 375-400˚F/190-200˚C. Fry the pork again until browned and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on the paper towel lined plate. Carefully pour off the hot oil into a heat-proof container. Wipe out the wok.

Return the pork to the dry wok over high heat. Give the sauce a quick stir and immediately pour it all over the base of the wok. When the sauce starts to boil and thicken, stir quickly to coat the pieces in the sauce, which will reduce to a sticky glaze. Remove to a serving plate and sprinkle scallion greens on top.

Aunt Gloria’s Tourtiere

I got this recipe from my sister. She serves it at Christmas, and so I thought I would try a Canadian Christmas tradition this year. The tourtiere or meat pie came out full of flavor with a flaky crust although a bit dry. I was afraid the water that sprang with the  cooking of the meat would make the crust soggy so I poured it off. I should have left it in because the potato would have absorbed the liquid. I also added 2 teaspoons of President’s Choice Four Peppercorns to the meat mixture. Joyeux noel.

Classic Canadian Tourtière
For Tourtiere
1 large potato or 2 small potatoes, peeled and cubed
4 slices bacon, chopped (thick cut bacon in original recipe)
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups sliced button mushrooms, optional
¼ cup dry white wine (I used brandy)
1 1b each ground pork and veal (I used 1 kg ground pork tenderloin)
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp pepper (I added 2 teaspoons Four-Peppercorns)
¼ tsp cinnamon
Pinch ground cloves (can substitute allspice)
All-purpose savory pie dough (recipe after this one)
1 egg yolk

In saucepan of boiling salted water, cook potato until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and return to saucepan, mash and set aside.

Meanwhile, in large saucepan, fry bacon over medium-high heat until softened. Add onion and garlic; cook until softened, about 3 minutes.

Add mushrooms, cook until almost no liquid remains, about 5 minutes. Add wine; cook until almost no liquid remains.

Stir in pork and veal, if using; cook, breaking up with spoon, until browned, 20 to 25 minutes. There will be some liquid in the bottom. Don’t discard.

Add salt, pepper, cinnamon and cloves; cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Add potato; cook, stirring, until incorporated, about 5 minutes. Let cool.

For Savoury Pie Dough
Makes enough for 1 double-crust 9-inch pie
2 ½ cups all-purpose flour
¼ tsp salt
2/3 cup cold unsalted butter, cubed (when I don’t have unsalted butter, I use salted butter and cut the salt in half)
1/3 cup cold lard, cubed (I use vegetable shortening instead)
1/3 cup cold water (approximate)

In bowl, whisk flour with salt. Using pastry blender or 2 knives, cut in butter and lard until in coarse crumbs with a few larger pieces.

Add water 1-2 tablespoons at a time, tossing with fork until ragged dough forms and adding up to 1 tbsp more water if necessary.

Divide in half, shape into discs. Wrap each in plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, about 30 minutes.

On lightly floured surface, roll out 1 disc of the dough to 13-inch circle. Fit into 9-inch pie plate. Fill with meat mixture, mounding it in the center. Trim dough even with rim; brush rim with water.

Roll out remaining dough into 12-inch circle. Fit over filling, pressing edge to seal. Trim to leave ½-inch overhang; tuck under bottom pastry and flute. Cut steam vent in top.
If desired, roll out pastry scraps and cut out festive shapes. Whisk egg yolk with 1 tbsp water; brush over pastry. Press shapes onto pastry; brush with egg wash.

Bake in bottom third of 425 degree Fahrenheit/225˚C oven for 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 400 degrees Fahrenheit/200˚C; bake until steaming and pastry is golden, about 30 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes before cutting.

Serve with A1 steak sauce.

 

pork wellington with country gravy

This pork wellington is wrapped in a pork sausage stuffing that is wrapped in a golden, flaky puff pastry. I served it with roasted vegetables.

Pork Wellington
Prep time: 15 minutes
Baking time: 30 minutes
Resting time: 10 minutes

1 pork tenderloin, about 2 pounds
1 pound ground pork
1 cup fresh mushrooms, chopped
4 tablespoons onion, chopped
2 teaspoons fennel seed
1 teaspoon chili flakes, more or less to taste, optional
salt and pepper
vegetable oil
Frozen puff pastry, thawed

Brown tenderloin in hot oil. Set aside. Preheat oven to 400˚F/200˚C.
Prepare a baking tray with parchment paper. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, add the ground pork, mushrooms, onion, fennel, chili flakes, if using, and salt and pepper. Mix and set aside.

Roll out puff pastry on a lightly floured board. Spread the ground pork mixture in the middle of the pastry, leaving a 2 inch border all around. Put the pork tenderloin in the center of the ground pork mixture and fold up the long sides. Seal and fold the short ends under the pastry. Turn it seam side down on the prepared baking tray. Brush vegetable oil all over the pastry.

Bake 30 minutes or until the pastry is golden and the pork tenderloin reaches an internal temperature of 140˚F on an instant read thermometer. Let rest 10 minutes before slicing and serving.

Country Gravy
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes

1/4 cup vegetable oil
1/3 cup flour
2 cups milk
1-2 teaspoons soy sauce, optional
salt and pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan. Add the flour and whisk until smooth. Gradually pour in the milk, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and is smooth. Add soy sauce, if desired, to make the gravy brown. Add salt and pepper to taste.

I had leftover mushrooms and onion, so I browned these up and added them to the gravy.