hangzhou sweet and sour pork

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We were in Hangzhou two years ago when we went down to the West Lake on our first evening to watch the fountain, light, and music show. Afterwards, we went into this restaurant called Grandmother’s Kitchen for dinner. That’s when I first tasted sweet and sour pork,  Hangzhou style,  and I was surprised by its honest fresh flavour. The sauce wasn’t sticky, sweet, and dense, like the Chinese- American restaurant version, but lightly sweet with tart notes and a pleasant sour base that made you want to eat more of it. This recipe from Fuchsia Dunlop’s cookbook Land of Fish and Rice brings me back to that night in Hangzhou.

Hangzhou Sweet and Sour Pork
Time: 30 minutes
Yield: serves 2 if a main meal

For the pork:
10 oz/275g pork tenderloin
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine or dry sherry
2 tablespoons potato starch
4 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 teaspoon sesame oil, optional
A handful of scallions, green parts only, cut into 1 or 2 inch/2.5-5cm lengths
Rice bran oil or vegetable oil for deep frying

For the sauce:
3 tablespoons superfine sugar
2 tablespoons Chinkiang vinegar (can substitute Balsamic Vinegar)
1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine or dry sherry
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
1 teaspoon potato starch mixed with 2 teaspoons cold water

Split the tenderloin in half lengthwise then cut each half into 1/2 inch thick pieces. Put pork into a medium bowl and add the salt and wine/sherry. Mix well.
In a large bowl, mix together potato starch and flour with 5 tablespoons water. Stir with chopsticks to make a thick batter. Add pork to the batter and stir well to coat. Combine the sauce ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.

In a wok, heat about an inch of oil to 350˚F/150˚C. Using a pair of chopsticks, drop the pieces of pork into the hot oil. Don’t crowd the pan. Fry in batches 3 minutes or until just cooked through. Remove with a slotted spoon to a paper towel lined plate to drain. Reheat the oil to 375-400˚F/190-200˚C. Fry the pork again until browned and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on the paper towel lined plate. Carefully pour off the hot oil into a heat-proof container. Wipe out the wok.

Return the pork to the dry wok over high heat. Give the sauce a quick stir and immediately pour it all over the base of the wok. When the sauce starts to boil and thicken, stir quickly to coat the pieces in the sauce, which will reduce to a sticky glaze. Remove to a serving plate and sprinkle scallion greens on top.